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How To Make Trouble
cause you possess this little collection of mostly illegal concepts, you
should be aware of your legal rights IF arrested (hey, it happens to the
worst of us).
Your Legal Rights are::
1) Have a hearing before a magistrate or judge, as soon as possible after
you are arrested.
2) Be notified of the charges against you.
3) Have a reasonable bail set, if bail is granted.
4) Have a FAIR, IMPARTIAL trial by jury.
5) Be present at all stages of the trial.
6) Confront your accusers. (Without the baseball bat)
7) Have your lawyer cross-examine the witnesses.
8) Have your lawyer call on witnesses on your behalf.
9) Be tried for a crime only once.
10) Receive neither cruel nor unusual punishment if you are convicted of a
crime and sentenced.
NOTE!!!: These rights are for after you are arrested, and do not include the
reading of the rights, etc. If these rights are violated in ANY way, that may
be cause for a mistrial, or even total release.
juveniles accused of breaking the law are granted some special rights intended
to protect them, because of their age. If a juvenile is charged with a crime
punishable by a term in a reform school or juvenile detention facility, he is
assured the right to:
1) Remain silent, and not incriminate himself/herself.
2) Be placed in quarters separate from adult offenders while being held in
custody.
3) Be notified before a hearing of the charges against him.
4) Be released to his parents or guardians after signing a written promise to
appear at his trial (unless the child is likely to run away and not come back
to court unless he is dangerous or may himself be in danger if sent back home).
5) Be tried at proceedings that are closed to the public.
6) Have a record of the proceedings made, in case one is needed for a future
appeal.
7) Be represented by a lawyer.
8) Have a lawyer appointed by the court if he cannot afford one.
9) Confront his accusers.
10) Have his lawyer cross-examine witnesses.
Again, these rights are for after you have been arrested.
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
lock picking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lock picking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
PO Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massillon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lock picking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
PO Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, Teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medicos), although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
effective lock pick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lock picks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the dead bolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: If one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin
pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all
these tools and devices are uses is similar: Pull, push, or otherwise move the
latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is
done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing
the latch back into the door.
Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door
closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from
being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catch plate
of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently
far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be
slipped.
(Ill. 2.11) ___
| } <
Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger
second |___} <
finger
Some methods for getting through locked doors are:
1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the
frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to
the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed
with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position
horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it
out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after
shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of
forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings,
and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding
them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely
innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they
work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but
then why bother to slip the lock at all?
3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far
enough to slip.
4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or
replace the catch plate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so
that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If
you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make
it much easier to pick.
5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door
opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with
welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its
effectiveness.
6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly,
break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger
retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g.,
Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially,
yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or
screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the
door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to
attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/....
7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things
in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical
resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that
everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a
tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a
wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for
better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can
get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with
a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a
micrometer works best: Keys made from mic measurements are more likely
to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us
tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that
works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble
it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed.
8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have
simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be
consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small
screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply
a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the
screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With
practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins
will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the
top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up,
additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in
conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older
or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the
cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if
their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins
to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it
generally takes a *lot* of patience.
9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take
breaks. Make the most of your opportunities.
10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes
anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to
look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and
normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that
they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups
at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's
aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually
*like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you
do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any
theft or break-ins reported there the next day...
11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a
building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys
are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places
that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in
each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those
places you're *really* curious about.
12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the
lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or
similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.)
SLIPPING A LOCK
The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It
is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent
as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls
nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs,
etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb
is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't
leave home without one.
(Ill. #1)
The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that
looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
(Ill. #2)
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
(Ill. #3)
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities
have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At
most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal
charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are
particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks
that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]
we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are
various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For
instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any
key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least
don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too
much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey.
More later